# How to sew a buttonhole on a sewing machine

Source: https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/how-to-sew-a-buttonhole
Published: 2026-10-13
Publisher: Stitch and Hem

**In short:** Mark the buttonhole length on your fabric, fit the buttonhole foot, and select the buttonhole stitch. Sew a test on a scrap with the same fabric and interfacing, then stitch the real one and open it with a seam ripper, working from each end towards the middle. A one-step machine does this automatically from the button size; a four-step machine needs you to change the dial between each side.

A machine buttonhole is two rows of dense zigzag with a bartack at each end, and the only real skill is preparing the fabric and opening it cleanly. The stitching itself is the easy part, whether your machine has a one-step sensor foot or a manual four-step dial. This guide covers measuring, interfacing, the two foot types, a test routine and how to cut the hole open without slicing through the stitches.

## Measure and mark the buttonhole

The hole needs to be slightly longer than the button is wide so the button can pass through without strain. A common rule is to measure the button across its widest point, add the thickness of the button, and use that total as the length of the hole. Thick, domed or shank buttons need more room than flat ones, so always try the actual button in a test hole.

Mark the position of each buttonhole with a washable pen or tailor's chalk. Keep all the holes on one garment in line by drawing a single guide line, and make sure the marks sit parallel to the edge for a horizontal buttonhole or at right angles to it for a vertical one. On a shirt band, horizontal holes sit at right angles to the edge, and vertical holes run with the grain of the band.

## Prepare the fabric before you stitch

Buttonholes are dense and put a lot of stitches into a small area, so unsupported fabric puckers or is pulled through the feed dogs. Fuse or sew a layer of interfacing to the area behind the buttonholes. On very light or stretchy fabric, add a small piece of tear-away stabiliser under the hole as well, and remove it afterwards.

Use a new needle that suits the fabric. A blunt or bent needle makes ragged edges on a buttonhole, and the stitching is too dense to forgive it. A universal 80/12 is a good starting point for woven cotton, and the [needle size chart](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/sewing-machine-needle-size-chart) explains when to go finer or heavier.

## Fit the buttonhole foot

Machines use one of two feet. A **one-step sensor foot** has a clip or slide at the back that holds the button, and the machine measures the size and sews the whole hole in one go, including both bartacks, then stops. A **four-step foot** has a plain slot or a simple grooved sole, and you sew the left side, a bartack, the right side and the second bartack by turning the stitch dial between each stage.

If your machine has a one-step foot, put the button in the back holder, close it up snug, and lower the foot. The button should not be able to slide. If you have the four-step version, look for the foot with the guide marks on the side, because those marks help you start and stop at the right points. There is a full explanation of the difference in [one-step vs four-step buttonholes](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/one-step-vs-four-step-buttonholes).

[See computerised machines with one-step buttonholes](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-computerised-sewing-machines)

## Sew a test buttonhole first

Cut a scrap of the same fabric, with the same interfacing, folded to the same number of layers as the real garment. Sew a test hole, open it, and push the button through. If the button is tight, lengthen the hole. If it is loose, shorten it. Check that the stitches look even on both sides, because uneven columns are the most common fault.

- Slightly uneven columns: the foot is not sliding evenly, so check there is nothing under the fabric and adjust the feed or foot pressure if your machine has the setting
- Stitches too sparse and the edges fray: lower the stitch length so the columns are denser
- Stitches too tight and the hole will not open: lengthen the stitch a little or widen the stitch width
- Fabric bunches at the start: add stabiliser and let the machine feed the fabric without pulling it

## Sew the real buttonhole step by step

Line up the start mark under the needle, lower the foot and sew. On a one-step machine, keep your hands light and let the machine feed the fabric. Do not pull or push. On a four-step machine, follow the sequence below.

1. Select the first step (the left column) and sew towards you down to your end mark.
2. Switch to the bartack setting and sew a few stitches across the end.
3. Select the right column and sew back up to the start mark, which runs in the opposite direction to the first column.
4. Switch to the second bartack and sew a few stitches to finish.
5. Pull the threads to the back, tie them off and trim.

Note: Do not sew over pins. A pin hit at buttonhole speed can break the needle or knock the machine out of time.

## Cut the buttonhole open safely

Place a pin across each end, just inside the bartack, so you cannot cut too far. Then slip a seam ripper in the middle and push it towards one end, cutting the fabric between the two columns of stitching. Repeat from the middle to the other end. Sharp small scissors work as well: snip a tiny slit in the middle, then trim carefully to each end.

If you want extra protection against fraying on loose weaves, run a thin line of fray check along the cut edge before the button goes through, and let it dry. This helps on linen and loose-weave cotton.

## Frequently asked questions

**Can any sewing machine sew a buttonhole?** Most modern machines have a built-in buttonhole stitch and a foot, but very basic models may only do a manual four-step version or none at all. Check the stitch list and the accessories box. If your machine has no buttonhole function you can sew a narrow zigzag by hand-guiding the fabric, but the result is rarely as neat.

**How long should a buttonhole be?** Measure the button's diameter and add the thickness, as described above, then test on a scrap. The hole should hold the button snugly without gaping.

**Why does my buttonhole look uneven?** Uneven columns usually mean the fabric was dragged, the foot was not sitting flat, or the fabric was not stabilised. Add interfacing, check the foot is clipped on properly, and let the feed dogs move the fabric.

**Do I need a special machine for buttonholes on thick fabric?** Not special, but a stronger one helps. A heavy duty model handles layered denim and coats more easily, so look at the [heavy duty sewing machines](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-heavy-duty-sewing-machines) if you sew a lot of thick garments.

## Buying guides on this topic

- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-computerised-sewing-machines
- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-sewing-machines-for-dressmaking
- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-sewing-machines-for-beginners