# Quilting machine vs sewing machine

Source: https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/quilting-machine-vs-sewing-machine
Published: 2026-10-12
Publisher: Stitch and Hem

**In short:** A standard sewing machine can piece and quilt most bed and lap quilts with a walking foot or a free motion foot. A quilting machine adds a longer arm with more throat space, higher speed and often a straight stitch focus, which makes large quilts easier to handle. Long arm machines on frames go further, but they are a separate investment of space and money.

Quilting machine can mean three different things: a domestic sewing machine marketed for quilting, a semi-industrial straight stitch machine with a longer arm, or a long arm machine that rides on a frame. All of them sew the same three layers together. What changes is how much quilt fits under the arm, how the stitches are controlled, and how much room the set up needs. This guide explains the differences and what a standard machine can do with the right feet.

## What makes a machine a quilting machine

**Throat space** is the distance from the needle to the body of the machine, sometimes called harp space. When you quilt a large quilt, the rolled up bulk has to pass through that gap. More space means less wrestling and fewer drag lines in the stitching.

**Feed and foot control** matter because three layers shift. A walking foot or built in dual feed system grips the top layer while the feed dogs move the bottom, keeping layers together for straight line quilting. For free motion quilting, you lower the feed dogs and move the quilt yourself.

**Stitch regulation** is found mainly on long arm and some mid arm machines. A sensor reads how fast you move the fabric or the machine head and adjusts needle speed to keep stitch length even. Our article on [what a stitch regulator is](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/what-is-a-stitch-regulator) explains it in detail.

## Three machines compared from their listings

The Janome MC6700P is a large computerised machine with a wide passage under the arm, the Juki TL-2010Q is sold as a high speed semi-industrial sewing and quilting machine, and the Janome Skyline S3 is a computerised machine with a wide sewing space. The table uses listing details only, with gaps marked as not stated.

| Feature | Janome MC6700P | Juki TL-2010Q | Janome Skyline S3 |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Machine type | Computerised sewing machine | High speed semi-industrial sewing and quilting machine | Computerised sewing machine |
| Space under the arm | 255 mm wide, 120 mm high | Not stated | 8.25 x 4.7 inch |
| Built in stitches | 200 including 9 buttonholes | Not stated | 120 including quilting patterns |
| Maximum speed | Up to 1,200 stitches per minute | Not stated | Not stated (speed control slider) |
| Feed system | AcuFeed Flex | Not stated | 7 piece feed dog, drop feed |
| Maximum stitch width | 9 mm | Not stated | Not stated |
| Weight | 11 kg | 17.2 kg | 8.39 kg |
| Dimensions (D x W x H) | 22 x 51.6 x 30 cm | 40.6 x 71.1 x 43.2 cm | 24.9 x 49 x 30.7 cm |

Listing details: Janome MC6700P, Juki TL-2010Q, Janome Skyline S3

[See our best sewing machines for quilting](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-sewing-machines-for-quilting)

## What a standard sewing machine can quilt

Plenty. Piecing needs only an accurate straight stitch and a quarter inch foot. Quilting the layers together on a domestic machine is a matter of the right foot and good preparation, and many quilters work on standard machines for years.

Straight line and gentle curve quilting is easiest with a walking foot. Free motion quilting, such as stippling and loops, needs a drop feed and a darning or free motion foot. The limit is size: a king size quilt is hard to push through a small throat, so larger quilts are often quilted in sections or sent to a long arm service. Our guide on [how to machine quilt for beginners](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/how-to-machine-quilt-for-beginners) covers technique.

1. Baste the quilt sandwich well with pins, spray or thread so the layers cannot shift.
2. Fit a walking foot for straight lines, or lower the feed dogs and fit a free motion foot for free motion work.
3. Start in the centre and work outwards, rolling the quilt to fit under the arm.
4. Support the weight of the quilt on a table behind and to the left so it does not drag.
5. Use a fresh quilting needle sized for your thread; our needle size guide helps you choose.

## Long arm and mid arm machines on frames

A long arm quilting machine sits on a frame with rollers that hold the backing, wadding and top stretched flat. Instead of moving the quilt, you move the machine head across it, often with stitch regulation keeping stitches even. The arm is far longer than on any domestic machine, so a wide section of quilt is accessible at once.

The trade off is space and cost. A frame for a full size quilt takes up a large part of a room, and the machine is designed for quilting rather than dressmaking. Mid arm machines and sit down quilting machines sit in between. For most hobby quilters, a standard or larger throat domestic machine plus occasional use of a local long arm service is the practical route.

## Which should you choose?

Think about quilt size, how often you quilt and whether you also want to sew clothes and bags. A domestic machine with a wide throat and a good feed system covers the widest range of projects.

- Standard sewing machine: piecing, small quilts, wall hangings and quilt as you go blocks.
- Larger throat computerised machine: regular quilting of lap and bed quilts plus general sewing.
- Semi-industrial straight stitch machine: fast piecing and quilting if you do not need zigzag or buttonholes; check the specification for stitch types.
- Long arm on a frame: frequent large quilts, or quilting for others, with dedicated room space.

Note: Switch off and unplug the machine before changing needles or feet, fitting a walking foot or cleaning lint from the bobbin area. For motor, wiring or timing faults, use a qualified sewing machine engineer.

## Frequently asked questions

**Can I quilt a king size quilt on a regular sewing machine?** It is possible with careful rolling, good support and patience, but the small throat makes it hard work. Many quilters quilt large tops in sections or use a long arm service.

**Do I need a stitch regulator?** Not for walking foot quilting, where the feed dogs control stitch length. A regulator helps with free motion work on long arm machines, but steady practice gives even stitches on a domestic machine too.

**What is the difference between a long arm and a quilting machine?** Quilting machine is a broad label. A long arm is a specific type that moves over a quilt held on a frame, while many quilting machines are domestic or semi-industrial machines with larger throats.

**What feet do I need for quilting?** A quarter inch foot for piecing, a walking foot for straight line quilting and a free motion or darning foot for free motion work. Our [presser feet guide](https://stitchandhem.co.uk/blog/sewing-machine-feet-explained) shows what each does.

## Buying guides on this topic

- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-sewing-machines-for-quilting
- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/best-computerised-sewing-machines
- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/janome-sewing-machines-compared
- https://stitchandhem.co.uk/best/juki-sewing-machines-compared

## Sources

- [Janome UK](https://www.janome.co.uk)
- [Juki household machines](https://www.juki.co.jp/household_e/)