How to shirr with a sewing machine

What you need

Shirring works best on light, woven fabrics such as cotton lawn, voile, viscose, double gauze and seersucker.

• Shirring elastic thread (a fine elastic core wrapped in thread)
• Normal all purpose polyester thread for the top
• A universal needle in size 70/10 to 80/12
• A light, woven fabric cut about one and a half to two times the finished width
• A ruler and washable marker or chalk for row lines
• A steam iron

Winding the bobbin

Do not wind shirring elastic on the bobbin winder at full stretch. Wind it by hand, guiding it on evenly with very light tension so it is snug but not stretched. A stretched elastic bobbin gathers less and can break.

Insert the bobbin as normal. On drop-in machines, some sewers find the elastic gathers better if they bypass the bobbin tension slot; try it threaded normally first, then bypassed if the gather is weak. Keep a note of what works on your machine. For bobbin basics see how to wind a bobbin.

Machine settings for shirring

These are common starting points. Test on a scrap of the same fabric and adjust.

Step by step

Work on the right side of the fabric so the elastic shows on the wrong side.

1. 1

   Mark the first row line with a washable marker.

2. 2

   Sew the first row with a long stitch, leaving long thread tails and no backstitching.

3. 3

   Use the edge of the presser foot or a guide to sew the next row about 1 cm away.

4. 4

   Before each new row, stretch the fabric flat so earlier rows do not bunch under the foot.

5. 5

   Continue until the panel is complete, refilling the bobbin by hand as needed.

6. 6

   Pull the top threads to the back and knot each pair firmly, or stitch over the ends in the seam allowance.

7. 7

   Steam the panel by holding the iron just above the wrong side; the elastic shrinks and the gathers tighten.

If your machine will not gather

Weak gathering is usually down to the bobbin. Rewind by hand more evenly, try bypassing the bobbin tension slot on a drop-in machine, and lengthen the stitch to 4 mm. Steaming makes a big difference, so always steam before deciding the gather is too weak.

Some drop-in bobbin machines gather less than front loading machines because of how the bobbin tension works. If you shirr often, a machine with a front loading bobbin case can help; read drop-in vs front loading bobbins. Avoid tightening the upper tension a lot, as it can snap the elastic.

If the elastic keeps breaking, it may be wound too tightly or the needle may be burred; change the needle and rewind loosely.

Note:Do not pull the fabric through the machine to increase gathering. Let the feed dogs move it and use steam to tighten the gathers.

Finishing and care

Secure every row end, as shirring elastic is slippery and can pull out. Sewing the side seams over the row ends locks them in. Wash shirred garments on a gentle cycle and avoid very hot tumble drying, which can weaken the elastic.

Shirring is a good project for a reliable mechanical or computerised machine with a smooth feed. Our best sewing machines for dressmaking guide compares machines suited to garment sewing, and sewing machine settings for different fabrics covers other light fabrics.

See machines for dressmaking →

Frequently asked questions

What stitch length do you use for shirring? Start with 3 to 4 mm. Longer stitches gather more; shorter stitches gather less.

Do I put shirring elastic in the bobbin or on top? In the bobbin, wound by hand. Normal thread goes on top.

Why is my shirring not gathering? The bobbin may be wound too tightly, the stitch too short or the panel not yet steamed. Rewind loosely, lengthen the stitch and steam.

Can you shirr with a drop-in bobbin? Yes. Many drop-in machines shirr well; if the gather is weak, try bypassing the bobbin tension slot.