How to sew stretch fabric on a sewing machine

Choose the right needle and thread

The needle makes the biggest difference. A ballpoint or jersey needle has a rounded tip that slides between the knit loops rather than cutting them, so it avoids holes and ladders in cotton jersey and sweatshirt fabric. A stretch needle has a medium ball point and a shape designed to reduce skipped stitches in fabric with elastane, such as leggings, swimwear and power mesh.

Sizes 75/11 and 80/12 suit most lightweight and medium jerseys, with 90/14 for heavier fleece and ponte. Use a good quality all purpose polyester thread, which has a little give. Our sewing machine needle size chart and needle size guide show the full range.

Pick a stitch that stretches

A standard straight stitch has almost no give, so it can snap when the seam is stretched. Instead, use one of the stitches below. Many computerised machines label stretch stitches with a small icon in the stitch chart; your manual shows which ones are intended for knits.

Step by step: sewing a jersey seam

Start each seam with the fabric well under the foot, or begin on a small scrap, so the needle does not push the edge of the knit down into the needle plate. A clear stitch plate area and fresh needle help avoid this.

1. 1

   Fit a new ballpoint or stretch needle in the right size, with the machine switched off.

2. 2

   Select a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch and sew a test seam on a scrap of the same fabric.

3. 3

   Reduce presser foot pressure if your machine has a dial, so the foot does not push the top layer forward.

4. 4

   Pin or clip the layers along the seam, keeping pins at right angles to the edge.

5. 5

   Hold the fabric lightly in front of and behind the foot. Guide it, but do not push or pull.

6. 6

   Sew at a steady, moderate speed and stop with the needle down to pivot.

7. 7

   Stretch the test seam gently: if stitches pop, widen the zigzag or switch to a stretch stitch.

8. 8

   Press with a cool to medium iron and a pressing cloth, without stretching the seam.

Note:Switch off and unplug the machine before changing the needle or presser foot. If the machine keeps skipping or jamming after a needle change and rethreading, a qualified sewing machine engineer should check the timing.

Stop wavy seams with a walking foot or stabiliser

Wavy, stretched seams happen when the feed dogs pull the bottom layer through while the presser foot holds the top layer back, or when the fabric is stretched as it feeds. A walking foot feeds the top layer in step with the bottom and is one of the best fixes on a domestic machine. Lowering the presser foot pressure, if available, also helps.

On shoulder seams and necklines, a strip of clear elastic, stay tape or knit interfacing stabilises the seam so it does not stretch out over time. For very fine or slippery knits, a strip of tissue or tear-away stabiliser under the seam gives the feed dogs something to grip. Steam can often shrink a mildly wavy seam back into shape.

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Using an overlocker and differential feed

An overlocker trims, sews and neatens the seam in one pass, using looped threads that stretch with the fabric. That makes it the natural partner for knits. Its differential feed uses two sets of feed dogs moving at different speeds. Setting it above normal (often marked 1.5 to 2) gathers the fabric slightly as it feeds, which stops knits stretching into waves. Setting it below normal helps stop fine wovens puckering.

Always test on scraps and adjust one setting at a time. Our guide to overlocker differential feed explains the settings in more detail, and the best overlockers for beginners guide covers machines suited to garment sewing. For hems on knits, a coverstitch machine gives the twin needle look with more stretch.

Frequently asked questions

What are the best sewing machine settings for stretchy fabric? A ballpoint or stretch needle, a narrow zigzag (about 1 to 1.5 mm wide) or a stretch stitch, a medium stitch length and lighter presser foot pressure if available. Test on a scrap and adjust before sewing the garment.

Do I need an overlocker to sew jersey? No. A standard sewing machine with the right needle and a stretch or zigzag stitch can sew jersey well. An overlocker makes it faster and gives a neat finished edge, but it is optional.

Why does my machine skip stitches on stretch fabric? Usually the needle is wrong or worn. Fit a new stretch needle, rethread both threads and try again. If skipping continues, try a different size or brand of stretch needle.

How do I hem a T-shirt on a sewing machine? Use a twin stretch needle with a straight stitch, or a narrow zigzag, sewing from the right side. A strip of fusible knit tape in the hem helps stop tunnelling between the two rows.