Topic
Needles and feet
Most stitch problems come from the needle. Match the size and point to the fabric, change it often, and pick the right foot for the job.
- Needle sizes
- NM/US 60/8 to 120/19
- Domestic system
- 130/705H
Needles are labelled with a metric NM size and a US size, such as 90/14. Smaller numbers suit fine fabrics; larger numbers suit denim and canvas. The needle size guide lists typical pairs.
The point matters as much as the size: universal for wovens, ballpoint or jersey for knits, stretch for elastane, denim for dense wovens.
Feet come in low shank and high shank fittings, and many clip on. A zipper foot, blind hem foot and walking foot cover most jobs beyond the all purpose foot.
Common mistakes
- Sewing a whole project on one needle: change it every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or after hitting a pin.
- Using a universal needle on jersey, which can cause skipped stitches.
Guides on this topic
- Thread bunching under the fabric: causes and fixesA nest of thread under your fabric usually means the upper thread missed the take-up lever or tension discs. How to find the cause and fix it quickly.Fix
- Sewing machine thread keeps breaking: fixesWhy sewing machine thread keeps breaking: old or poor thread, burrs, the wrong needle size, missing spool caps and over tight tension, with fixes for each.Fix
- Sewing machine skipping stitches: fixesWhy a sewing machine skips stitches: needle type and age, ballpoint needles for knits, threading faults, and the timing problems that need a service.Fix
- Sewing machine pedal or motor not working: what to checkSewing machine pedal or motor not working? Check plugs, the bobbin winder, start/stop buttons and speed sliders, and know when a pedal needs replacing.Fix
- Sewing machine not feeding fabric: fixesFabric not moving under the foot? Check for lowered feed dogs, a stitch length of zero, lint packed under the needle plate and presser foot pressure.Fix
- Sewing machine needle size chartA sewing machine needle size chart from 60/8 to 120/19, matched to fabrics, plus when to choose universal, jersey, stretch or denim points.Guide
- Sewing machine feet explained: zipper, walking, rolled hem and moreWhat each common sewing machine foot does, from zipper and walking feet to rolled hem and blind hem feet, and which projects need each one.Guide
- How to clean and oil a sewing machineRemove lint from the bobbin area, find out whether your sewing machine needs oil at all, and learn how often to clean and which oil to use.How-to
- How to adjust sewing machine tensionRead loops and puckers, test stitch in two colours and set the upper tension dial. Plus when, and when not, to touch the bobbin case screw.How-to
- Are sewing machine needles universal?Most domestic sewing machines take 130/705H needles, but overlockers can differ. Learn the needle systems and when you need embroidery or topstitch needles.Guide
- Are sewing machine feet universal? Shanks and snap-on feetSewing machine feet are not universal. Learn the difference between low, high and slant shank, how snap-on adaptors work and how to check your model.Guide
- Are sewing machine bobbins universal?Sewing machine bobbins are not universal. Learn the difference between class 15, 15J, L style, class 66 and brand specific bobbins, and how to find yours.Guide