How to use a zipper foot

Types of zipper foot

A standard zipper foot is a narrow foot with a notch on one or both sides. On many snap-on systems, you attach it to the left or right of the foot holder so the needle passes next to the teeth. On machines with adjustable needle position, you fit it centrally and move the needle instead.

An invisible zipper foot has two grooves underneath. The coil of the zip runs in a groove, which rolls it open so the needle stitches right in the fold. Invisible zip feet are not universal: some machines need a branded foot, while generic plastic feet fit many low shank machines. Read are sewing machine feet universal before buying.

Fitting the foot and setting the needle

Take your time on this step, as the needle must clear the foot.

1. 1

   Switch off the machine and raise the needle fully.

2. 2

   Remove the standard foot and snap on the zipper foot, on the left or right bar as the manual shows.

3. 3

   Select straight stitch.

4. 4

   On computerised machines, move the needle position towards the teeth side if needed.

5. 5

   Turn the handwheel by hand through one full stitch to check the needle clears the foot.

Note:Always check needle clearance by hand after fitting a zipper foot. A needle striking the foot can break and fly off.

Sewing a standard zip

For a centred zip in a seam, sew the seam below the zip opening with a normal stitch, then machine tack the zip opening closed with a long stitch and press the seam open. Place the zip face down on the seam allowances with the teeth on the seam line and pin or tape it in place.

Turn to the right side and sew down one side about 6 mm from the seam line with the zipper foot, across the bottom and up the other side. When you reach the zip pull, stop with the needle down, lift the foot, slide the pull past and continue. Unpick the tacking stitches to open the zip.

For a lapped or fly zip the principle is the same: the foot lets you stitch closely along the teeth. Keep the stitch length around 2.5 to 3 mm and sew slowly near the pull.

Sewing an invisible zip

Invisible zips are sewn before the seam below them. Open the zip and press the coils flat with a cool iron so they uncurl. Pin one side face down to the right side of the fabric, coil on the seam line, and sew with the invisible foot so the coil runs in its groove, stopping where the slider stops you.

Close the zip, mark the other side, open it again and sew the second side the same way. Then switch to a standard zipper foot, close the seam below the zip, starting just above and to the side of the last zip stitch. From the right side, the zip should disappear into the seam.

Troubleshooting zips

Wavy zips usually come from stretching the fabric or zip as you sew; use fusible tape along the opening on light or knit fabric. Skipped stitches next to the teeth mean the foot is lifting; sew more slowly and use a fresh needle. If the zip is hard to close, the stitching is too close to the teeth.

Machines with adjustable needle positions make zips much easier, as you can fine tune the distance. Our best sewing machines for dressmaking guide lists machines with this feature, and sewing machine feet explained covers the other feet you will use.

See machines for dressmaking →

Frequently asked questions

Which way round does a zipper foot go? Attach it so the needle passes on the side of the foot nearest the zip teeth. Swap sides for the other half of the zip, or move the needle position.

Can I sew an invisible zip with a normal zipper foot? Yes, with care, by sewing very close to the unrolled coil, but an invisible zipper foot makes it far easier and neater.

Do zipper feet fit all machines? No. Snap-on feet fit many low shank machines, but some brands and high shank machines need their own feet. Check your manual.

What stitch length is best for zips? A straight stitch of around 2.5 to 3 mm suits most zips. Use a long basting stitch for tacking the opening closed first.