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How to use a twin needle on a sewing machine

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In short

Check your machine has a zigzag stitch and a needle plate opening wide enough, and fit a twin needle of the right system. Thread two upper threads through the same path, separating them only at the tension discs if the manual says so and at the final needle guides. Turn on twin needle mode to limit stitch width, use a straight stitch of 3 to 3.5 mm and sew on the right side. On knits, use a stretch twin needle and stabilising tape to prevent tunnelling.

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A twin needle sews two parallel rows of straight stitch on the top with a single bobbin thread zigzagging underneath. It gives a professional looking hem on T-shirts and jersey, neat topstitching and decorative pin tucks, all on a normal sewing machine. Most zigzag machines can use one. This guide covers compatibility, threading, settings and the common problems.

Will a twin needle fit your machine?

Your machine needs a zigzag stitch, a needle plate and foot opening wide enough for both needles, and a spool pin for a second thread. Most front loading and drop-in domestic machines with zigzag meet these conditions. Straight stitch only machines and some vintage machines cannot use twin needles.

Twin needles come in widths such as 2.0, 3.0, 4.0 and 6.0 mm (the distance between needles) and in types: universal for wovens, stretch for jersey and lycra, jeans for heavier fabric. The needle must suit your machine's needle system, usually 130/705H on domestic machines. Our are sewing machine needles universal explainer covers systems.

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The parts of a needle, three point types and the size marking.

Threading two spools

Thread both upper threads together through the same path, then separate them at the end.

  1. 1

    Switch off the machine and fit the twin needle with the flat side to the back.

  2. 2

    Place one spool on the main pin and the second on the extra spool pin, so they unwind in opposite directions if possible.

  3. 3

    Thread both threads together through the guides and take-up lever.

  4. 4

    At the tension discs, follow the manual: some machines pass one thread either side of a tension disc.

  5. 5

    At the needle bar guide, pass one thread through the guide and leave the other outside, if the manual says so.

  6. 6

    Thread the left needle and right needle by hand; built-in threaders do not work with twin needles.

Note:Turn on twin needle mode or limit the stitch width before sewing. A zigzag wider than the plate allows will break the needle.

Settings for twin needle sewing

Use straight stitch at about 3 to 3.5 mm for hems and topstitching. Many computerised machines have a twin needle button or setting that limits the width of decorative stitches; switch it on. On mechanical machines, keep the needle in the centre position and do not select stitches wider than the plate allows.

Sew on the right side of the fabric, as the twin rows appear on top and the zigzag bobbin thread on the back. Sew slowly at corners and lift the foot to pivot with the needles in the fabric. Do not reverse; tie off the threads by hand on the back.

Fixing tunnelling on knits

Tunnelling is a raised ridge between the two rows, where the bobbin thread pulls them together. It is the most common twin needle problem on jersey. Lower the upper tension slightly, lengthen the stitch a little, use a stretch twin needle and place a strip of lightweight fusible tape or wash-away stabiliser under the hem.

A walking foot can help the layers feed evenly on stretchy fabric. Our how to sew stretch fabric guide covers settings, and overlocker vs coverstitch explains the dedicated machine that sews a similar hem with more stretch.

Choosing a machine with good twin needle support

Machines with a twin needle mode, a second spool pin and adjustable presser foot pressure make twin needle work easier. The Brother Innov-is A80, for example, lists a twin needle mode, and many mid range computerised machines include one.

Compare options in our best computerised sewing machines guide, which includes machines suited to garment sewing and knits.

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Frequently asked questions

Can any sewing machine use a twin needle? Most machines with a zigzag stitch can, if the plate opening is wide enough and the needle system matches. Straight stitch only machines cannot.

Why does my twin needle keep breaking? The stitch is probably too wide for the plate or the needle position is off centre. Turn on twin needle mode and use straight stitch in the centre position.

Which twin needle do I need for jersey? A stretch twin needle, often 2.5 or 4.0 mm wide. Use a 4.0 mm for T-shirt hems.

Is a twin needle hem as stretchy as a coverstitch? It stretches, but less than a coverstitch. For lots of knit hems, a coverstitch machine gives a stretchier, more durable result.

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