Handheld sewing machine vs a full size machine

How handheld machines stitch

Most handheld sewing machines form a single thread chain stitch. A needle pushes a loop of thread through the fabric and a small hook catches it, and the next loop passes through the previous one. There is no bobbin. The stitch looks neat on the top, but if the last loop is not secured, pulling the free end can unravel the whole seam.

A full size domestic machine forms a lockstitch: the upper thread and the bobbin thread interlock in the middle of the fabric layers. Each stitch is locked on its own, so a broken stitch does not undo the seam. That is why lockstitch is used for clothing seams and anything that takes strain. Our explainer on how a sewing machine works shows the process.

Side by side

The differences come from the stitch and from how the fabric is fed.

Where a handheld makes sense

A handheld can tack up a curtain hem without taking the curtain down, hold a costume together for one event or close a seam on a cushion cover temporarily. For those jobs, speed and portability matter more than strength.

Even then, it helps to tie off the end of the chain by hand and to test on a scrap first. Light, woven fabrics such as cotton work best; thick seams, knits and layered hems tend to jam or skip.

Why most people are better off with a basic machine

Hemming trousers, taking in a seam, sewing on patches, replacing a zip or making simple clothes all need a secure stitch, a zigzag for edges and a reliable feed. A basic mechanical or computerised machine does all of this, and the skills you learn carry on to bigger projects.

Look for a machine with a one-step buttonhole, a free arm for sleeves and trouser hems, easy threading and a drop-in bobbin. Our best sewing machines for beginners compares machines that are easy to learn on but worth keeping. If you want something that is light enough to take to classes, choose a compact model rather than a handheld.

See sewing machines for beginners →

Using a handheld safely

Handhelds have an exposed needle close to your fingers. Keep fingers away from the needle area, switch off before rethreading or clearing jams and keep them away from children. Battery models should be used with the batteries recommended by the maker.

If you decide on a full size machine instead, read how to use a sewing machine for beginners for a safe first session.

Note:Always switch off a handheld machine before threading, changing the needle or freeing jammed fabric.

Portable alternatives that still lockstitch

If portability is the main reason you are looking at a handheld, consider a compact full size machine instead. Several mechanical machines weigh around 5 to 7 kg, have a carry handle and a hard or soft cover, and still form a proper lockstitch with a bobbin, a zigzag and a buttonhole. They take a few minutes to set up but give lasting seams.

Check the stitch type, the weight, whether a free arm is included and whether the machine has a one-step buttonhole. A machine with a drop-in bobbin and a built-in needle threader is quicker to set up when you only sew occasionally. For quick setup tips, see how to thread a sewing machine.

Frequently asked questions

Are handheld sewing machines good for beginners? Not for learning to sew. They only do a straight chain stitch, are hard to guide evenly and do not teach the skills you need for a normal machine.

Can a handheld sewing machine hem jeans? Generally no. Denim hems are thick and handhelds struggle to pierce several layers. See how to hem jeans with a sewing machine.

How do I stop a handheld stitch unravelling? Pull the last loop through to the back and tie the thread ends in a knot, or finish the seam with a few hand stitches.

Is a mini electric machine better than a handheld? Usually, if it forms a lockstitch with a bobbin. Check the stitch type before buying, and expect a full size machine to feed fabric more evenly.