How to sew leather on a home sewing machine

Which leathers a home machine can sew

Domestic machines are suited to thin, soft leathers such as garment lambskin, suede and thin cowhide, plus faux leather and vinyl. As a rough rule, two layers that together are no thicker than heavy denim are manageable on many machines, and heavy duty models cope better.

Thick vegetable tanned leather, belts, saddlery and multiple layers of heavy hide are too much for a domestic machine. Forcing them bends needles and strains the motor and timing. For those, hand stitching or an industrial walking foot machine is the right tool. Read industrial vs domestic sewing machines for the difference.

Needle, thread and stitch length

Use a leather needle, which has a cutting point that slices a small slit rather than piercing. Size 90/14 suits thin leather, 100/16 or 110/18 thicker pieces. For faux leather and vinyl, a sharp microtex or a leather needle both work; test first.

Use a strong polyester or bonded nylon thread, not cotton, which can rot and is weaker. Lengthen the stitch to about 3 to 4 mm, because short stitches perforate leather like a stamp and can tear it. Our needle size guide helps you match needle and material.

The right presser foot

Leather and vinyl stick to a standard metal foot and stop feeding evenly. A walking foot feeds top and bottom layers together, a roller foot rolls over the surface and a non stick (Teflon) foot glides. Any of the three is a big improvement. As a quick fix, put masking tape on the underside of a standard foot, leaving the needle opening clear.

Some heavy duty machines come with a non stick foot; the Brother HF27 listing, for example, mentions one for leather and PVC. Our guide to sewing machine feet shows the walking foot and others.

Step by step: sewing a leather seam

Practise on scraps of the same leather before sewing your project.

1. 1

   Fit a new leather needle and thread the machine with polyester thread.

2. 2

   Set a straight stitch of 3 to 4 mm and reduce presser foot pressure slightly if your machine allows.

3. 3

   Hold the layers together with sewing clips or double sided tape, not pins.

4. 4

   Start a little in from the edge, holding the thread tails.

5. 5

   Sew slowly and steadily, letting the feed move the leather without pulling.

6. 6

   At the end, do not backstitch; pull the threads to the back and tie them off.

7. 7

   Finger press or tap seams flat with a mallet; do not iron real leather directly.

Note:Go slowly over thick seams and keep fingers away from the needle. If the machine labours or the needle deflects, stop: the material is too thick for the machine.

Choosing a machine for leather work

If you sew leather or vinyl often, a heavy duty machine with a strong motor, high presser foot lift and a walking or non stick foot is worth having. Metal frames resist flexing, and slow speed control helps you sew accurately.

Our best heavy duty sewing machines guide compares machines suited to leather, denim and canvas, including models with non stick feet. For the Singer pair many people consider, see Singer 4423 vs 4411.

See heavy duty sewing machines →

Faux leather and vinyl tips

Faux leather and vinyl behave much like real leather at the machine: holes are permanent and the surface grips. Use the same non stick or walking foot, a longer stitch and clips instead of pins. A sharp microtex needle sometimes gives a cleaner hole than a leather needle on thin PU leather, so test both on a scrap.

Do not iron vinyl or PU leather directly, as it can melt. If you must press, use a cool iron on the wrong side with a pressing cloth, or flatten seams with a roller. Topstitching close to the seam helps the allowances lie flat without heat.

Frequently asked questions

Can a normal sewing machine sew leather? Yes, for thin, soft leather and faux leather with a leather needle, longer stitch and a walking, roller or non stick foot. Thick leather needs an industrial machine.

What needle do I use for leather? A leather needle with a cutting point, size 90/14 for thin leather up to 110/18 for thicker pieces. Do not use leather needles on woven fabric.

Why does my leather not feed through the machine? The surface grips the foot. Use a walking, roller or non stick foot, or tape on the underside of a standard foot.

Should I backstitch on leather? Avoid it, as extra holes weaken the leather. Tie the thread ends by hand on the wrong side instead.