Sewing machine zigzag not working: fixes

Problem 1: the machine sews straight, not zigzag

On mechanical machines, zigzag needs both the zigzag stitch selected and a stitch width above zero. Turn the width dial to its widest setting and test. On computerised machines, check the screen for the width value and press the plus button.

Some accessories limit or lock the width. A straight stitch foot or a straight stitch needle plate only has a small round hole, and computerised machines may block zigzag when they detect one or when straight stitch plate mode is selected. Twin needle mode reduces the maximum width too. Swap back to the standard zigzag foot and plate, and turn off twin needle mode.

Note:Never sew zigzag with a straight stitch plate or foot fitted. The needle will strike the plate and can break.

Problem 2: the zigzag skips or looks uneven

When the machine swings but stitches are missed or messy, work through these steps in order.

1. 1

   Rethread the upper thread with the presser foot raised.

2. 2

   Fit a new needle: ballpoint or stretch for knits, universal for wovens.

3. 3

   Check the bobbin is the correct type and inserted in the right direction.

4. 4

   Clean lint from the bobbin area and feed dogs.

5. 5

   Test on a double layer scrap of the same fabric.

6. 6

   Lower the upper tension slightly if the zigzag pulls the fabric into a ridge.

Problem 3: zigzag tunnels or puckers the fabric

Tunnelling is when a wide zigzag draws the fabric into a raised ridge between the stitches. It is common on light fabric. Reduce the stitch width or lengthen the stitch, lower the upper tension a little and place tear-away stabiliser or tissue paper underneath, then remove it after sewing.

On knits, use a stretch or ballpoint needle and a slightly longer zigzag so the seam stretches without popping. Our guide to how to sew stretch fabric covers the settings, and the tension guide explains how to balance stitches.

When zigzag skips but straight stitch is fine

Zigzag places extra demands on the hook timing because the needle moves sideways. If straight stitch is perfect but zigzag skips, especially on the left or right swing, try a new needle of a different type first. Our skipped stitches fix has more checks.

If skipping continues on every fabric after a new needle and rethreading, the machine may need its timing adjusted after a knock or a jam. That is a job for a qualified engineer.

See reliable beginner machines →

Choosing the right zigzag

Most machines offer more than one zigzag. A standard zigzag is for neatening edges and satin stitch; a three step (multi-stitch) zigzag is better for elastic and stretch edges because it lies flatter and holds better. An overcast stitch works with an overcasting foot for edge finishing.

For edges on lots of knit garments, an overlocker gives a faster, stretchier finish. Read overlock stitch vs zigzag to decide if you need one.

Quick settings for common zigzag jobs

These are starting points for a typical domestic machine. Always test on a scrap of the same fabric and adjust from there.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my zigzag stitch not working on my Singer? Check the width dial is above zero and that the zigzag foot and plate are fitted. On computerised Singers, check twin needle mode is off.

What stitch width should a zigzag be? For neatening, 4 to 5 mm wide and 1.5 to 2 mm long is a common starting point. For stretch seams, a narrow zigzag of about 1 to 1.5 mm works well.

Can a bent needle stop zigzag working? A bent needle can skip stitches or hit the plate on the wide swing. Replace it immediately.

Why does my zigzag pull the fabric together? Upper tension too high or a stitch too wide for light fabric. Lower the tension slightly and use stabiliser underneath.